Domaine du Pélican purchased this Grand Curoulet north-facing parcel in 2012 located on the side of a hill that dominates Arbois and the Saône plain. Grand Curoulet is known to be where the first vines of Arbois were planted. Their holding of Grand Curoulet totals almost 5 ha (12.5 acres). When they acquired it in 2012, they attempted to salvage its old (60+ years) vines, but had to recognise after one vintage that this was not possible. Hence they uprooted the parcel almost entirely, and took advantage of this to perform some very useful drainage restoration work. They replanted the parcel in 2015 with Savagnin (two-thirds) and Chardonnay (one-third). The soil is made of grey marls (about half the parcel) and multicoloured marls (green and wine-red), the oldest. Due to its north-facing and windy location, Grand Curoulet usually matures later than the other terroirs of Domaine du Pélican. The grapes are lightly crushed before being pressed, and fermentation is in foudres and barrels. One-third of the crop macerates with the skins for one night before being pressed. Ageing is in 500-litre barrels with no new oak. Less immediate fruit impact than from the straight Savagnin Ouillé, more mineral and restrained, some stone dust, but you can sense the underlying power of the fruit. It’s herbal to begin but underneath that is some riper fruit – citrus and even lychee – notes, a little smoky too. It’s the stony mineral side that gets stronger as the wine opens. And then there’s a burst of fruit power and intensity on the palate with a lovely grainy tension and mouth-watering depths. Fabulous power and length and yet still so refined. (JH)